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Shipping precious gear can be daunting. Luckily, we’re experts on the subject and happy to share our knowledge ! Here are some useful guidelines to get you started.

Sellers must ensure that accurate weight, dimensions, and appropriate packaging are provided to prevent damages during transit.

Incase of a refund Buyers must also know how to Ship Gear.

 
1. How to Ship a Guitar
2. How to Ship a Drum Set
3. How to Ship an Amp
4. Shipping a Keyboard & Synth
5. Shipping Pro Audio Gear
6. International Shipping Guide

1. HOW TO SHIP A GUITAR

 

Nervous about shipping a guitar? Don’t be. Shipping a guitar, bass, or other instrument is easier than you may think. See our recommendations below on how to pack and ship a guitar as safely and securely as possible.
 

What You’ll Need :

  • Packing paper, kraft paper, or other non-abrasive packing material.
  • At least one rectangular box in brand-new or like-new condition.
  • Packing tape (sometimes called packaging tape).

 

What you should not use :
 
  • Do not use newspaper or any other paper with ink, which can stain finishes.
  • Do not use an old box that has lost its structural integrity.
  • Do not use movers tape, masking tape, or other weaker tapes. Only packing tape is strong enough to reliably seal guitar boxes.

 

Step 1: Prep the Guitar
Before the guitar is even in its case, there are some important steps. (Don’t worry: If you’re shipping without a case or gig bag, these same steps apply).
– Loosen the strings. Don’t detune entirely, but give the strings some slack, which will decrease the amount of tension on the neck.
Secure all movable parts.

Nothing should be able to rattle around during transit, so it’s important to secure any and all loose components.

  • Whammy bars should be detached, wrapped, and stored either in the case pocket or separately within the shipping box.
  • Check the bridge and/or tailpiece. If there’s any movement or potential for movement, put a piece of packing paper between the moving piece and the guitar’s body. Trapeze-style tailpieces in particular should be wrapped with a sheet of packing paper so they do not scratch the body.
  • Especially for vintage or extra-valuable guitars: remove the plastic pickup toggle switch and strap pins. Wrap them or place them in a small bag and store them securely in the case pocket. Gibson-style toggle switches are damaged frequently in shipping, and end pins can damage the body if the bottom of the guitar takes a heavy hit.
  • Separate strings from fretboard with packing paper. Create a long strip of packing paper and insert it between the strings and the length of the fretboard. This will prevent the strings from digging into the frets.

 

Step 2: Secure the Guitar in Its Case
Your main goal is: The guitar should not be able to move in its case. To accomplish this, follow these steps in order:
 
Body >

Around the body, add packing paper or other safe packing material anywhere there’s empty space. (If the case doesn’t fit the guitar snugly, add one or a couple layers of packing paper underneath the entire body.) You don’t want the body to be able to shift at all during transit.

Neck joint >

Secure the neck where it meets the body, but do not add so much material that you cause extra strain on the neck. (Especially for bolt-on necks, you can cause finish cracks during shipping if you overdo it at the neck joint.)

Neck >

If there are loose areas along the length of the neck, add one or two long sheets of packing paper underneath the length of the neck, or a bit of balled-up packing paper in especially loose areas. Be careful not to put pressure on the neck or anything that obstructs the case when it closes. You just want the case to close snugly around the neck—but the neck should still be free of strain in all directions.

Headstock >

Keep the area around the headstock free of packing materials. For angled headstocks like those found on Gibson guitars, stuffing paper or bubble wrap into the case’s headstock cavity can increase the risk of a headstock break. However, if the headstock is resting on the bottom of the case, use a bit of balled up packing paper near the nut to raise the headstock off the bottom. Otherwise, keep this entire area clear of packing paper.

 

Step 3: Check Your Work
Now that the guitar is secure within its case, close it, pick it up, and give it a few gentle shakes.
If you hear the guitar moving around, open the case again and address the problem area. (If you’re using a box instead of a case, you should make sure the guitar isn’t moving within the box in the same fashion.)
 
PRO TIP > Don’t have a case? For guitars without a hard case, use a double-walled box or two separate boxes, with one slightly larger than the other. Follow the same principles as above.

 

Step 4: Box It, Fill in Space, Tape it Up
Now that the guitar is secure in its case (or its first box), you should fit it inside a crisp, new rectangular box. Just as you don’t want the guitar moving in its case, you don’t want the case to move within the shipping box.

Start by adding some packing paper or other packing material at the bottom of the box. Place the case inside and fill the box with packing material on both sides. Finally, add packing material to the top.

Again, the idea is to eliminate the potential for the case to move around within the box—so make sure it’s snug.

Seal the box with packing tape and make sure your new shipping label is the one-and-only shipping label visible.

Rest assured that your guitar will get where it’s going safe and sound. Now that you know how to ship a guitar the right way, it’s time to list some more gear on GEARhub!

 

2. HOW TO SHIP A DRUM SET

 
Shipping an entire drum set is a thought that seems like a puzzle at best and a nightmare at worst, leading some people to sell their drums locally and give up thousands of potential buyers.
 
We’ve provided a guide to help you take the mystery and risk out of shipping your drums so you can sell them with confidence to the right buyer, regardless of where they might live.
 
This description is for a simple three-piece kit with a kick, rack tom and floor tom, but the same steps apply to larger kits as well.

The key space-saving trick here is nesting. This means packing toms inside your kick drum. Depending on the size of your kit and boxes, you can potentially nest one rack tom into your floor tom into your bass drum, to include a full three-piece kit in one box. However, you may need to split your set into multiple boxes if some of the drums are too big to nest into the others.

Note : Nesting works really well—if and only if it’s done properly. If you don’t protect each drum correctly, you will damage them. That means making sure that absolutely no wood or metal is resting against other wood or metal, removing and packing all hardware separately, and using plenty of packing material.

You’ll line the inside and outside of the kick with cardboard and fill it with foam sheets or bubble wrap to prevent the tom from shifting inside the kick drum. The kick drum is kept from shifting inside the box with foam slabs, which also protect the heads. Hardware needs to be wrapped up generously in bubble wrap and taped around and on both ends.

The same basic treatment can be used for individual drums (either another tom or a snare), without another drum inside. Read our play-by-play breakdown below.

 

What You’ll Need :

To ship drums, you absolutely need a sturdy box that is at least 3″ to 5″ inches wider than your largest drum’s diameter and 4″ to 6″ inches taller than its depth. You need to account not just for the drums themselves, but hardware, heads, and 3″ of padding material on all sides. If the sides of your box bulge once everything is packed, it is not safe to ship.

It can be difficult to find a box of these particular dimensions, so you may have to find a much larger box and cut it down to what you need.

 

Others materials you’ll need include:
  • Lots of cardboard scraps, cut to be as tall as each drum
  • Foam sheets or bubble wrap
  • Thick brown packaging paper (do not use newspaper)
  • Packing tape (do not use masking tape, movers tape, or other weaker tapes)
  • Foam slabs (these are crucial—much better than packing peanuts)
  • A tool to remove your bass drum head
  • A good utility knife.
  • Start by removing the legs from your drums, arms and brackets from your toms, and other hardware. Put the hardware to the side for now. Put the drums on their sides so they are easier to work with.
 
Step 1 : Prepare the Large Box
You’ll need to reinforce the box to support the weight of the drum kit.
You’re going to be putting quite a bit of weight into this cardboard box, so you want to reinforce it everywhere you can. Line the bottom with additional pieces of cardboard, which will help keep it sturdy and prevent piercing if the box is set down on an uneven surface. Line each side with an additional piece of cardboard too.
 
 
Step 2 : Prepare the Kick Drum
Remove one bass drum head and put it somewhere it won’t get damaged. Wrap the bass drum hoop in bubble wrap or foam sheets and fit it back onto the bass drum shell.
 
Wrap the outside of the kick in packing paper first, then with bubble wrap or foam sheets. Take the cardboard scraps that you’ve cut to match the kick drum’s depth and create a cardboard layer over the other wrapping. Tape it all securely.
 

Line the inside of the kick drum with more cardboard scraps (again matching the kick drum’s depth).

Place the kick drum into your reinforced box. Fill all the available space in the box with foam slabs first on each side and packing paper in between so the kick drum cannot move within the box.

 

Step 3: Nest the Tom
This makes for both a compact and secure package.

Take the first tom you want to nest and wrap in packing paper first, then with bubble wrap or foam sheets. (If you’re going to nest multiple toms, then this should be the larger one.) Tape the wrapping around the drum and on both ends. Line the bottom of the inside of the kick drum with cardboard and bubble wrap/foam sheets to protect the other head.

Place the wrapped tom inside the kick drum. Fill the gaps with plenty of heavy paper until the rack tom is firmly secured. Make sure that there is no direct contact at all between the tom and the inside of the kick drum. Place cardboard scraps on top of the tom.

If you are going to nest another smaller tom, repeat the same process for that next tom.

 

Step 4: Hardware and Head(s)
Don’t forget the hardware.

Wrap the floor tom legs, rack tom arm and/or bracket, and any other hardware in bubble wrap and tape all around, including the ends. If this bundle of hardware cannot fit in one of the spaces on the side of the kick drum, use a separate box. Do not pack hardware on top of the kick drum.

Take your spare kick drum head. Put it in a spare head box or create a similar “box” with spare bits of cardboard. Place additional bubble wrap on top of the head, and then place the protected head on top of everything else.

 

Step 5: Seal Up the Box
Make sure everything fits snugly before you tape it up.
 
Use more cardboard scraps to create another layer on top of everything you’ve packed, reinforcing what will be the top of your box with one last layer of cardboard.
 
If you realize that your box is significantly taller than your tallest drum at this point, make a mark about 2″ above the top of the drum on the inside of the box. You can cut the corners to this mark and fold over the sides to change the height of the box. You want it as snug as possible.
 
Close the box. When taping, tape all sides and be generous with it. Remember, you want the packages to stay shut no matter what. Give it the old shake test and listen to make sure nothing is moving around.
 
Step 6: Repeat as Necessary

If you need to make more than one box of drums (depending on the size or amount of shells), repeat the same steps above.

 

3. HOW TO SHIP AN AMPLIFIER

 
Shipping an amplifier might seem daunting, but we’re here to show you that it doesn’t have to be. Follow along with the steps to learn how to securely and safely pack and ship your amplifier to its brand-new home.
 

What You’ll Need

  • Strong packing material such as foam pads, along with bubble wrap, packing paper, and cardboard
  • Foam corner protectors
  • A brand-new or like-new box that is 3″ larger than your amp on all sides. (And you may want an additional, smaller box for tubes.)
  • A large plastic bag or sheet of plastic
  • Packing tape (sometimes called packaging tape).

 

Step 1: Remove & Pack the Tubes
This first step is, in fact, a little subjective. If you’re shipping a vintage amp, or if the tube sockets of the amp are at all loose, you’ll want to remove the tubes from the amplifier. If the amp is new or relatively new and the tubes are secure, you likely don’t need to remove them.

In most cases, tubes are located in the back of your amp. Unscrew any back covers so you can access the tubes.

When removing them, gently work each tube in a circular motion. Tubes are fragile, so be sure not to force them out. Once you’ve pulled them out, label them (in order) and wrap them in bubble wrap or other packing material.

The larger tubes can be wrapped individually, but for smaller tubes, you can wrap a few side by side. Once they’re ready, place them in their own box that you’ll eventually pack into the larger box with the amp. Tape it up and write “Tubes” on the outside of the box to make sure they’re not discarded when the new owner opens the package.

 

Step 2: Prep the Amp
Make sure to add foam corners or other extra corner protection to all sides of the amp.

Wrap the power cable (and, if your amp has one, the footswitch cable) with a rubber band so the cable doesn’t whip around in transit and potentially puncture the speaker. Wrap the power cord (and footswitch) in packing paper or bubble wrap. Use a piece of cardboard to keep the item(s) snug and separated from the speaker and tube sockets. Fill the cavity with packing paper to make sure everything stays put during transit.

Especially if you’re using styrofoam or packing peanuts as your packing material, wrap the amplifier in a bag or a sheet of plastic to prevent the packaging material from filling into the open cavity.

 

Step 3: Box it up, Fill in Space
Start by filling the bottom of the box with foam pads, sheets, or other heavy packing material.

Do not put the amp directly onto the floor of the box. You want 3″ of packing material on all sides of the amp—including the bottom. This is going to keep the box sturdy, absorb any heavy hits, and prevent the amp from moving around too much in transit.

Once you’ve placed the amp in the box—right in the middle of the surrounding cardboard walls—fill the spaces between the amp and the box. Be sure to include your small box of wrapped tubes as well.

 

Step 4: Tape Generously
Tape the top of the box and all seams generously, using packing tape and packing tape only. (Do not use movers tape, masking tape, or other weaker tapes!)

Fill all the available space in the box so that nothing can move around!

Give it the old shake test and listen to make sure nothing is moving around. Once that’s done you, slap a label on it, and mail it out! (You should be using a crisp, rigid box. But be sure to remove or scratch out any previous labels if you’re reusing a used box.)

 

4. SHIPPING A KEYBOARD OR SYNTH

 
Keyboards, synths, MIDI controllers, and related electronic instruments come in all shapes and sizes, from small desktop units to large 88-key keyboards.

For most of them, the fundamentals of the packing and shipping process remain the same. You’ll just need some different sized boxes.

For truly heavy keys like a vintage Fender Rhodes, you’re going to want to take extra precautions. In this tutorial, we’re focusing on keyboards and synths that are light enough for most people to box and lift themselves.

To start, gather the materials you’ll need to pack and ship it safely to its new home.

 

What You’ll Need :

  • A box that allows 2-3″ (5-8cm) of space around the instrument.
  • Bubble wrap
  • Foam pads, packing peanuts, packing pillows, or other similar packaging material.
  • Packing tape
  • Scissors or knife
  • Measuring tape
  • A marker
  • Foam corner protectors (not necessary for all, but a great way to protect against damage, especially for longer keyboards).

 

Step 1: Preparing Your Box
Finding the perfect sized box right out of the gate can be difficult for instruments of varying dimensions, so we’re going to assume that you need to cut down a bigger box to just the right size
Measure your instrument.

Add 5″ (13cm) to the length, width, and depth measurements of your instrument for the ideal box size.

Mark your box.

Mark your box so you know where to cut. Don’t forget to add space for flaps!

Make your cuts.

Make your cuts. Cut along the lines you marked on your box, and then cut your flaps.

 

Step 2: Wrap Your Keyboard
Use 2-3 layers of bubble wrap to wrap up your keyboard.
After your keyboard is wrapped and taped, wrap up your power cord and any other cables in their own layer of bubble wrap. Place the wrapped cable(s) on top of the wrapped keyboard and wrap it all together with another layer of bubble wrap.
 
 
Step 3: Make Padded Ends
If you have foam corner protectors, now’s the time to place them.
If you don’t have foam corner protectors, you can fashion your own with two layers of bubblewrap: Take one layer, roll it up so that it’s 2-3″ (5-8cm) thick, and tape it together to make a padded end. Do the same with the other layer. Take each end and secure them to the ends of your wrapped keyboard.
 
 
Step 4: Packing Your Box
Next, layer the inside floor of the box with 2-3″ (5-8cm) of foam pads, packing peanuts, or other packaging material.
Slide your instrument into the box, and line all sides with more padded packing materials. Then tape your flap closed. You can feel confident that your keyboard is packed snugly and securely if nothing moves inside of it when you shake your closed box.
 
PRO TIP > If you’re dealing with a heavier piece of equipment, consider heavier packaging material like foam pads vs. lighter materials like packing peanuts.
 
 
Step 5: Mark Your Box, Weigh It, and Ship
Once everything is securely packed, place “Fragile” and “This Side Up” stickers onto the outside of your box. If you don’t have any of these stickers handy, clearly mark your box with a thick marker.
And that’s it! As long as you follow these simple instructions, you can rest easy knowing that your keyboard is going to safely arrive at its new home.
 
 

5. SHIPPING PRO AUDIO GEAR

 

Once you’ve sold a piece of gear on GEARhub, you’ll want to make sure it arrives safe and sound. That means packing it and shipping it correctly so that the buyer gets as much enjoyment out of it as you have.

 
In order to help you pack and ship microphones, interfaces, and other pro audio outboard gear, we’ve created this quick and easy-to-follow Check List.
 

What You’ll Need :

  • A roll of bubble wrap or foam wrap
  • Heavy duty paper, packing peanuts, or expanding foam packers
  • Packing tape
  • Box cutter
  • Measuring tape
  • Permanent marker
  • Brand-new cardboard box

 

Step 1: Prepare the Box
Once you’ve assembled all the materials, you’re ready to get started.
1) Measure the item to determine proper box size. (The box should be big enough to have 3″ to 4″ of space around all sides of the mic.)
2) Fill the bottom of the box with four inches of packing material (heavy paper, packing peanuts, or foam).
 
Step 2: Prepare the Item
* Use bubblewrap to protect the item.
* Lay out plenty of bubble wrap and fold it over itself.
* Lay your item in the middle and wrap generously.
* Once wrapped, secure the bubble wrap with packing tape, making sure the middle is tight and each end is taped shut. You don’t want any corners exposed.
 
Step 3: Pack It
* Secure the item snugly in the shipping box.
* Place the wrapped mic in the box, with equal distance on each side.
* Densely pack around the sides of the mic.
* Pack another 3″ to 4″ of packing material on top.
 
Step 4: Close It, Ship It
* Tape it up and test to make sure it’s secure.
* Now, tape the box shut, being sure to tape all of the openings closed.
* Mark the package for “Fragile” shipping. Note “Do Not Stack,” and “This Side Up” in appropriate spots.
* Apply your shipping label and double check it is correct.
* Give the box a little shake to make sure the mic is secure.
 

6. INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING

 

Because prices on GEARhub tend to be 20-40% less than typical retail prices in the U.S, U.K, Japan, or Europe, there’s a huge demand from international buyers.

Expanding your shipping options to regions outside of your country greatly increases your chances of a quicker sale on GEARhub, and can assist with growing your exposure and sale volume. As a result, our team has provided tips and guidance to help make your sales go smoothly.

 

Shipping carrier information

You are free to use whichever carrier you prefer for your shipments. Please note that if you use a national carrier, like your local postal service, the package will be handed over to the recipient’s country’s national carrier. If you arrange the shipment with an international carrier (UPS, FedEx, DHL, etc.), the shipment will be handled by that carrier throughout its journey.

Sellers are responsible in the event any package gets lost or damaged in transit. We recommend insuring your shipment, receiving tracking information from the carrier, and rounding up your listing’s shipping costs to account for these factors.

 

Communication is key

Communicate well. Ensure international buyers are aware they are responsible for taxes in their country.

  • The buyer is typically responsible for taxes, duties and customs fees.
  • It varies by country, but most governments charge local tax plus import duty. For example, most guitars imported to the U.K. pay a VAT rate of 20% plus a Duty of 3.7%.
  • The shipping provider will collect these costs from the buyer before releasing the package.
  • A fee is charged for clearing customs paperwork. USPS is significantly less expensive than UPS or FedEx.
  • Most worldwide deliveries take 5-10 days, though high-value packages may be held by customs inspections for 2-4 extra weeks.

 

Steps for shipping :

Fill out a customs form : The main customs form required is a Commercial Invoice; your shipping provider will have a template.

  • Most information is straightforward, such as address, dimensions, etc.
  • You will need to enter a Harmonised Tariff Schedule. This is a standard classification and can be found here. For example, an electric guitar is 9207.90.
  • A “Waybill” number is just the tracking number on your shipping label.
  • The “Reason for Export” will typically be a sale.
  • Make the description as specific as possible. For example, “A red 1998 Gibson ES-335 semi-hollow body electric guitar, serial number 915480300.”
  • The country of origin is where the instrument was manufactured, not where you’re shipping from.

 

Additional tips
  • Try to choose the best shipping service for the smoothest transaction.
  • When packaging, be sure to include the customs form on the outer packaging, ideally in a clear packing envelope so the agent can clearly see this. We also recommend putting a copy inside to be safe.
  • PRO TIP> Be careful with vintage instruments that contain restricted materials like tortoiseshell, Brazilian rosewood, or ivory—you may need a license to ship them.
  • Many vintage guitars may contain materials from endangered species and can’t be exported due to the CITES treaty.
  • If your instrument was manufactured before the date a species was added to the convention (i.e. 1992 for Brazilian rosewood), you are exempt if you get a permit. However, it can take several months and hundreds of dollars to receive a permit.